"We don't drink big green bottles." At 7:00 PM, near Beijing West Railway Station, at a craft beer bar called "40+", a middle-aged man raised his pint glass to toast his friends. In his early 40s, he hadn't had time to change out of his suit and shirt after work, and he only drinks craft beer. "Big green bottles" is a playful term used by craft beer enthusiasts to refer to industrial beer. Compared to industrial beer, craft beer is known for its pursuit of more distinctive flavors. In China, beer is an imported product, and the concept of craft beer has only become popular in recent years. Craft beer originated from European home-brewing techniques, but it was in the United States that the craft beer revolution first took off.
In the 1960s in the U.S., in pursuit of a richer beer-drinking experience, the first generation of craft beer pioneers began exploring different flavors and varieties. Amber ales, lagers, porters, and stouts began to enter people's lives. In later years, Belgian-style beers came into view, including white beers, bottle-conditioned ales, lambics, and fruit-flavored ales. During the brewing process, brewers pursued different beer styles and techniques, introducing new ingredients, and oak barrels gradually became a favorite among brewers. Barrels used for whiskey, wine, rum, and mezcal were innovatively incorporated into the beer brewing process.
Craft beer is not a classification of a specific type of beer. To some extent, the pursuit of craft beer is more like a rebellion of the urban middle class against modern industrialization. Now, craft beer is increasingly becoming an indispensable part of China's urban culture.
Craft Beer in China
Two weeks ago, a craft beer exchange event was held here. From afternoon until late night, a steady stream of people came, including many "masters" from Beijing's craft beer circle. They would bring their own homebrewed beers and taste each other's creations.
Yuxuan (pseudonym) is the owner of "40+" and a craft beer enthusiast, having studied under the pioneer Shijue. Yuxuan works at a large state-owned enterprise, and at dinner parties, he often brings his own homebrewed beer to show off, earning much praise. Recalling his first taste of craft beer, Yuxuan said, "It's like you've been eating steamed buns all your life, and suddenly someone gives you a piece of cake. That's the feeling." "It's like being enlightened," Sha Xiansen succinctly added. Sha Xiansen, in his 30s, is tall and stout, with a personal style that blends modern rock and ancient religious mystique. He wears heavy, exquisite Tibetan ornaments around his neck, prayer beads wrapped around his wrist, and several Tibetan silver rings on his fingers that stand out.
Sha Xiansen is a "social media influencer" in Beijing's craft beer circle and is also active in the entertainment industry, occasionally organizing niche music festivals and writing about his understanding of fine drinks for "Men's Health" magazine. Enjoying life is his philosophy. To date, Sha Xiansen has been into craft beer for over five years. He is also a member of the "Beijing Homebrew Association," and friends call him "Vice President." However, the "Beijing Homebrew Association" is not legally registered; strictly speaking, it is just a community of craft beer enthusiasts.
This is a very niche circle. In their own words, drinking craft beer satisfies the need to "show off, and show off well."
The "Beijing Homebrew Association" was founded in 2012 by a group of young Chinese with overseas experience and foreigners living in China. Initially, it had fewer than 30 members. As more craft beer enthusiasts joined, the community has grown to over 1,000 members.
Yin Hai is one of the founders and the first president. Alongside Yin Hai, Pan Dinghao and Gao Yan also joined early on, and all are hailed as pioneers of Chinese craft beer. The early pioneers brewed beer at home and often gathered to taste and exchange ideas. Later, they organized China's earliest homebrew competitions.
At that time, the concept of craft beer didn't exist. It was simply because they couldn't get the good-tasting foreign beers, so this group came together and decided to brew their own. Later, they discussed defining craft beer, and the concept of "refined brewing" began to be constructed in China.
Refined brewing differs from standardized modern industrial production processes. Industrial beers are all lagers; the word "lager" comes from the German word for "storage." This type of beer uses bottom fermentation, with a short fermentation period and low fermentation temperature, making it easy to store. However, to save costs, most industrial beers use corn, rice, and starch instead of malt, resulting in very low wort concentration, and additives are often used. Beer enthusiasts are very dissatisfied with this, and even more disappointing is the monotonous, uniform taste of industrial beer.
Influenced by the American craft beer revolution, China's craft beer pioneers eventually drew their own line in the sand: craft beer should only use malt, hops, yeast, and water, with no adjuncts to replace sugar sources. It should use ale yeast with top fermentation, ferment at room temperature, with yeast mixed in the wort, unfiltered, and unpasteurized. Of course, for Chinese local beer to be legally bottled and sold, it must be pasteurized, a step that distinguishes draft beer from pasteurized beer. Since pasteurization affects the taste, "if you can drink draft, don't drink pasteurized" has become a rule for many craft beer enthusiasts.
Ultimately, China's craft beer pioneers reached a consensus to maintain traditional techniques while building on the original brewing methods.
Beyond the red line, there is more room for exploration and innovation. In recent years, Chinese craft beer enthusiasts have experimented with hundreds of malts, paired with hundreds of yeasts and hops based on different roasting levels, and added special auxiliary spices, hoping to discover unique, stable recipes. "The real difference between craft beer and industrial beer lies in the spirit," Sha Xiansen concluded.
In the past, the biggest variable was water source. Before the Industrial Revolution in Europe, water purification technology was not mature, and pH levels could not be controlled. Due to transportation limitations, brewing ingredients were also confined to specific regions. Differences in water and ingredients between towns often determined the quality and taste of beer. However, with advancing technology and rapid globalization, regional limitations have been completely broken. Today, homebrewing has developed a complete and mature supply chain, with European wheat available in major cities. In this process, grassroots homebrewing practices in China have flourished.
In Sha Xiansen's memory, Yin Hai once brewed an exceptional stout. "Everyone who tasted it loved it. After bottling, it was hyped up to 1,500 yuan per bottle." To some extent, it is precisely because of its scarcity that craft beer has its unique charm. Due to uncontrollable factors in homebrewing, even with the same recipe, different batches can taste different. Those who can maintain consistency are highly respected in the circle.
The "Beijing Homebrew Association" has absorbed most of the pioneers in China's craft beer circle, but this circle has never had a unified organizational structure. Various craft beer organizations have emerged, but most are not legally registered. Divergence is the pattern of China's craft beer circle.
"It's like a girls' dormitory: five people create six group chats," Sha Xiansen said with a laugh, taking a sip of beer. "Divergence is a good thing. Beer has been constrained for so many years; we need divergence and brainstorming. I like Master Gao's slogan: 'Brewing Freedom.' As long as what you brew is good, and you have a positive attitude to brew, anything is acceptable."
The craft beer revolution that began in the U.S. in the 1960s is still ongoing. In the 1960s, there were fewer than 50 breweries in the U.S. A few years ago, there were over 2,000 craft breweries nationwide. Now, that number has doubled. To some extent, this fire has spread to China.
2012 is defined by the craft beer circle as the first year of Chinese craft beer. A single spark can start a prairie fire, and China's craft beer pioneers are not lonely. That year, Gao Yan founded Master Gao. Later, Pan Dinghao founded Panda Brew. Yin Hai founded NBeer Pub. Other brands that emerged include Dao Brew, Dangge, Laotao, Fengkuang, Wenshan Wheat Beer, Zuixiamen, Laibao, and Ubrew. In just a few years, nearly 10 local bottled craft beer brands have been recognized by Chinese craft beer enthusiasts.
Similar to the U.S., the founders of craft breweries were once homebrew enthusiasts. Amid the wave of consumption upgrading, a fire of entrepreneurship for local Chinese craft beer brands is quietly spreading.
Now, in Beijing's mainstream commercial areas and small alleys, more and more bars and restaurants selling craft beer can be seen. Whether it's a small pub, a barbecue joint, a Chinese restaurant, or a Western-style bar, customers can easily find several imported craft beers on the menu, and they are increasingly becoming the front line for craft brands. Many craft beer enthusiasts have opened their own bars and are constantly trying to brew beer with a stable taste. Every day, some craft beer bars close due to poor management, but that doesn't stop a large number of new ones from rising.
The Personalization of Beer
In the 1970s, Jackson's "The World Guide to Beer," published in the U.S., had a profound impact on the craft beer world. A group of authors represented by Jackson became the voices of the American craft beer revolution. Their narratives continuously constructed the glory of craft beer culture. In the process of homebrewing practice, China's craft beer pioneers have gradually formed their own understanding of beer. They boldly discuss brewing experience and taste, and China's craft beer culture is slowly accumulating.
As early as 2011, Gao Yan's book "Drink the Beer You Brew" was published and is widely recognized as the enlightenment book for Chinese craft beer enthusiasts. A few years later, Yin Hai wrote "The NBeer Classic," expanding the introduction and classification of craft beer. It is said that many people learned how to brew beer at home from these two books. As theory accumulates, China's craft beer revolution has risen to a new level.
Because of its higher alcohol content, craft beer is not suitable for "chugging," but chugging has been a long-standing habit among Chinese beer drinkers. Chugging leads to quick intoxication, and regular craft beer drinkers drink slowly. In the UK, friends at a pub often order just one pint each and chat until closing time.
"Drinking craft beer is itself a healthier lifestyle. It encourages communication between people, not binge drinking," Sha Xiansen said, taking a small sip of his beer.
"Brewing beer is also a way to express one's personality. Everyone has a different understanding of beer, and the flavors they brew are different." Amid the laughter, everyone almost forgot about the bar owner Yuxuan. He is also part of the craft beer circle, but he doesn't usually get involved in the business; the bar is just a side project.
Yuxuan proudly invited everyone to taste six different homemade beers, ranging from clear to cloudy, and from light to rich in flavor. Because he enjoys making friends, this craft beer bar has become a gathering spot for his friends, and each beer incorporates the owner's understanding of friendship.
"Junzi" is a German-style wheat beer with a light taste.
"Jinshi" is based on a Dangge stout, using the recipe of craft beer pioneer Shijue, and is quite distinctive. Under the dim lighting, it presents a brown color like oak wood, with a slightly heavy taste.
"Wujiu" is an IPA (India Pale Ale), which originated in England. In the late 18th century, the East India Company exported beer to India, and to prevent spoilage during transit, they increased the alcohol content and added more hops. "Wujiu" comes from the "Book of the Later Han," referring to a friendship that disregards wealth and status.
"Buyi" is modeled after porter, a dark beer brewed with roasted malt, with subtle hints of coffee and chocolate.
In Beijing's craft beer circle, homebrewing has become a fashion. The interactive process of tasting and evaluating among enthusiasts continuously defines the cultural connotation of craft beer in China.
Young People's Craft Beer Experience
Of course, outsiders don't have a deep understanding of craft beer, and the general public has limited exposure to local Chinese craft beer. Even veterans like Sha Xiansen initially tried craft beer just because the bottles looked nice.
"Craft beer is different from regular beer—different flavors, exquisite packaging, and it's more direct for showing off when drinking," said Liu Jun, a post-90s Beipiao (migrant in Beijing). He was previously active in the angel investment circle and is now the operations director of a large industrial park. "Post-90s are unconventional and pursue things that are different from others."
However, Liu Jun doesn't have many peers who love craft beer. In some more refined bar settings, craft beer prices are often more than 10 times that of regular beer. Due to the higher price, consuming craft beer requires a certain economic foundation, and those with several years of work experience are more likely to accept it.
With high housing prices, despite a good income, Liu Jun has no plans to buy a house. He prefers to enjoy life in the moment, spending his income on a high-quality lifestyle, such as travel, concerts, and craft beer.
"Now it's not just consumption upgrading, but also consumer finance. For young people, spending in advance is very common, and living paycheck to paycheck is the norm. Everyone receives a credit card bill every month," Liu Jun said, not hiding his lifestyle. He refuses to become a mortgage slave and simply puts housing prices out of his mind.
Large cities like Beijing are becoming the most prosperous regions for Chinese craft beer culture. Surprisingly, craft beer has gone beyond big cities and begun to seep into corners of many small towns.
This small city on the upper reaches of the Yangtze River is known for its brewing and is the hometown of the famous liquor Wuliangye. At a creative cuisine restaurant in Nanxi District, several rows of shelves display more than a dozen imported craft beers in an orderly fashion.
"It's just to elevate the restaurant's style," said the post-85s restaurant owner, who doesn't understand much about craft beer but has more practical considerations. "Craft beer has a distinctly different taste from regular beer, and customers are increasingly accepting it. Also, because of the higher retail price, the gross margin is far higher than regular beer."
In the U.S., thousands of craft breweries contribute 10% of the $100 billion beer market. Currently, China's beer market is around 200 billion yuan, with imported beer accounting for less than 1%, and domestic craft beer holding about 0.1% of the market share. However, industry insiders believe this share could soon reach 3%.
This article was originally published in The Economic Observer, reporters Gao Yang and Li Si.
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